• Wallace
    I know I am a bit late but .... I just got (two days ago) an OG vapcap. Well I had a vaponic vaporizer 2 year back (before I broke it) so I new more or less how to use a torch vape.

    Well after plenty of combusting my herb I finally got it and ..... Well not bad at all but never got the hang of it completely because .... There was always a bit of burnt bud (micro burning).....
    I always respected the clock and was using a single flame torch but still micro burning bud.

    Well I decided to clean it properly because of all the nasty burning buildup that as always over the insides... And it was all fine untill I went all anal about getting the screen clean and I popped it out ..... And when I tried to get it in position ... CRACK .... The glass exploded in my hand ......
    So any out there with an OG .... Don't remove the screen and if so be warned.

    PS. Don't know if I will buy a titanium one some day but for now I will stick with my plenty and MFLB.
  • Joey
    I'm clumsy as hell and broke a variety of glass vape/pipe/bong ... that's why I opt for wood now. The Nonavong is great and will last long, if not a lifetime.
    As for the micro burning bud, It never occurred to me (apart from the totally combusted bud, when I heated the unit too much longer). I would have told you "respect the click" but it seems you do just that.
    Maybe you're heating too close from the bottom of the cap...
    Really you should ask Baron23, since he's the vapcap senseï.
  • Baron23
    Won a contest on another site....Vapcap Ti Tip with a PhattPiggie stem. This will not break easily


    As for charing or uneven burning, I do not use a single flame lighter, which will take longer to get the click. I use the four and three (in a triangle) lighters that George sells and always respect the click and I have not had any issues in a glass OG with charring (I have combusted when too high to remember to listen for the cool down click and reheated too soon.

    The deal with the CCD (screen) in the glass OG is that it has to be removed in the same direction it was inserted, which would be from the MP end, as it is convex to a degree. If you try to remove it in the other direction, you will push the "convex" flat, widen the CCD, and crack the chamber.

    George has a video on his site (or did) on this exact subject. Worth watching if its still there.
    Phattpiggie stem and Ti Tip (71K)
  • Wallace
    First I must admit that I at first tested the "click" a bit
    First I must admit that I at first tested the "click" a bit and that is why it burned (and when it does it does burn… all black bud) and after that I always heated the cap the further one can go before reaching the glass and always in an angle (tip up leaning to a side) for the heat to move up towards the end of the cap (as shown on the tutorial video that vapcap has).
    But still got a bit of burnt bud (very very little but it was there) and I imagined that it could be produced because it was over heating a bit because of all the shit that I build up after burning a couple of times (real burning wile testing the “click”).
    So I decided to clean it with some ISO and well ….. it looked good except for around the screen were I could see some build up.
    So I saw the video from vapcap of how to remove it and I did so, and when I was putting it back in…. it went a bit to far in to the chamber and when I tried to get it back in place…….. CRACK….. no more vapcap.
    I Did like the fast hits but the flavor was not as great as expected (I do believe that the unit being very dirty from burning is almost for sure the reason but….. never got to experience the true “freshness” of the vapcap….)
    And that is my story ….
  • Wallace
    I have not found any glass replacementes in EU for the vapCap so .... I will save up and buy a StickyBrick Jr :)
  • Temple ov truth
    Wallace the SBjn is £119 in the uk right now free post as well seems a nice price .namast is the shop Temple ov truth, rave on
  • Baron23
    if you heat low on the cap (i.e. toward the glass), particularly with a single flame lighter, you will end up with higher chamber temps as the oven heats up while heat is transiting up to the cap to make it click.

    Heating closer to the clicker end will reduce chamber temp some. The reason I like the 3 & 4 flame lighters is that it seems to heat the whole cap evenly and I get pretty even AVB.

    I think all of this is discussed in a vid somewhere on George's site.

  • Joey
    Cool stem indeed! I'd like to order one from Phatpiggie but Idk how to process and also heard there's a long waiting list...can you enlightened me?
  • Baron23
    Catch him over on Vape Asylum or FC and PM him. That's all I know.
  • Joey
    Thanks a lot. Will do!
  • LabPong
    Just put together my Pipes Induction Heater.....a'la Skeletor. Wow....seriously.....the vapcap with this heater is incredible. Heats so even and quick.....totally unbelievable.


    With this setup....you have just removed the electronic heated air path from the vapor path......it turns the dynavap into a different experience all together. Messing with torches and filling fuel....ewwwwie....plus now I get perfect even heating and super super fast use....it's almost funny how easy and quick it is to use now.
  • cottoalvapore
    i want olny tell you that i've ordered a vapcap 2 weeks ago, and it's already "customs clearenca processing complete". I don't know if this means that the vape is on the way but i'm sure that with the pther vapes i've ordered from usa before this notice i had to wait a loooong time, i speak about few months :) so, maybe you can smile
  • cottoalvapore
    where can i found that heater or similies?
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