• BobCat
    This is what i use and have been very happy with it.
    Had for about a year or so, so don't know if they have updated it. :)


    Mooch's tests show this battery to be seriously overated. Be safe brother. :victory:

  • Ieyatsu
    :brow: I'll stick with the ones I know then. Thanks mate!
  • PureVape

    When i've had the Mod at 100+ watt (max is 220 watt), it has shown a constant discharge of 26 amps, which means the batteries or doing what it says on the packet.

    I've had NO trouble with these batteries.

    One bit of advice to everyone, if you charge your batteries in a proper (not the device itself) charger, you will get better use of them, also if you have old batteries that you have only charged in a device (via USB cable) i.e A Mod. That you think or flat, stick them in a proper battery charger and see if you can put some life back in them. ;)
  • PureVape

    What batteries do you use and what for? :)
  • Ieyatsu
    I have the Sony VTC5 and the Samsung 25R5, and use then on my Arizer Air. I have try the Panasonic NCR18650B, that have 3400 mAh (I have then for a flashlight) but have a lot of problems with then, probably becouse of the discharging current.
  • BobCat
    You're using the batts in an ecig. Gotcha. I truly am glad they are working so well for you. I just err on the side of caution. :victory:
  • JonnyFrontrow
    The shit you learn here at VapeLife! I had no idea about 18650’s until I saw this thread. So makes me nervous re cheapo 18650’s. Then the mrs bought this cheap handheld fan … so wondering oh battery gurus if the battery below is safe to use in the fan (4W output power/5V 1A input current)


    Here’s the 18650 it come with. It’s a 3.7v 2000mAh. Searched and couldn’t find much on SZNS brand (or via HS code – just learned about those too!).


    Tho I did find SZNS batteries being sold on AliBabba and a FAQ on geegood.com that included this (for real):

    Q: Do your item is original brand?
    A: Yes dear, all of our items are authentic original genuine 100% brand new grade quality.

    I will say the fans kick some serious ass. On high they sound like a drone. And they include a port to charge via USB.

    Plus, serious bonus points for the crazed South Africa rugby fan on the box front!
  • PureVape
    if the battery below is safe to use in the fanJonnyFrontrow

    Is that an hand (looks like it is) held fan?
    Don't see why those batteries (*not used those myself) would not be safe, if they or cheap, they will just probberly run flat quick. :)
  • juxt

    Agreed with PureVape they're probably totally fine. It's weird but even with an electrical motor it probably doesn't draw 1/4 the current (amperage) of some Vapes.

    I spent a little time trying to look these up with little success, but again if you're not vaping with them you're probably fine.

    The most problems happen when there's a short situation, and if that happens the battery could outgas, so be careful about getting water in the battery housing and that kind of thing.
  • JonnyFrontrow
    @PureVape @juxt thanks figured since it wasn't a heavy load it'd be OK ... but the whole thread just got me to be more aware to know what's happening battery wise. Which was NOT on my radar prior. Did make me check the bat in my Pico from HVT tho.
  • juxt

    Honestly that's exactly what I was hoping for.
  • SunnyHours

    Those cannot be 3000MaH and 30a Continuous /45a Pulsed...
    Think of it this way: Sony, Samsung and LG, which are the world leaders on Technology in general but also experts in the field of Battery Technology. Even these top companies haven't developed a battery this powerful in 18650 format. 1500MaH and 30a Continuous(CDR) Or 3000MaH and 20a Continuous(CDR) is the best out at this point...
    DO NOT BELIEVE WHAT'S WRITTEN ON THE STICKER/WRAPPER...it's so easy to rewrap a cheap battery with 5000MaH 50A Continuous(CDR)...doesn't mean it's true.

    Refer to Mooch's blog for real Battery test results...
  • SunnyHours
    seems you are right because @PureVape could really benefit from the knowledge I left earlier in Here
  • PureVape
    "could really benefit from the knowledge"

    Yes good info, can not fault. :up:

    From the 1st post of mine:

    "Even tho i've had these for about a year, i will be surprised if there is anything better on the market now. Please correct me if i'm wrong people"

    And from my 2nd post about these:

    "When i've had the Mod at 100+ watt (max is 220 watt), it has shown a constant discharge of 26 amps, which means the batteries or doing what it says on the packet"

    Has i said " discharge of 26 amps " and that was at about 140-150 watt, the Mod is capable of 220 watt.

    They were the dearest 18650 batteries out at the time and the 1st ones i've seen at 3000mah. :starstruck:

    P.s. I do read before buying stuff and those i bought direct from Aspire. ;)
  • PureVape

    Run the two " Imren 3000mah @ 30a/45a " batteries totally flat and after fully charging (must have took 6+ hours) them, it showed on the battery charger one at 2535 mah and the other at 2575 mah.

    Is that good or bad (they or about a year old), i'm going to do the same with the two Sony VTC5,s (might be VTC6's), which or about 18 month old, not sure, will update.

    Thanks. :)
  • PureVape
    The Sony (18650's) batteries took over 6 hour to charge as well and showed at 2355 mah and
    2270 mah in the battery charger after being fully charged.
  • 420edc
    Waiting for the Sony VTC6A to drop is like watching paint dry.
  • VapeCritic
    Fully charged 18650, the origin of 420 :lol:

  • Vapster707
    Damn my IMR battery shipment is taken forever it seems ordered on tha 31st label made early friday but wasnt picked up by usps til Monday ugh ...
  • SunnyHours
    It depends what you are going to do with the Battery...
    For Vape related things, whether ecigs or wax pen/box mod for 510 Heater/vape cartridges/any other 510 atomizers...

    To give you a vague explanation of CDR (Constant Discharge Rate in Amps...as opposed to Pulsed Discharge Rate in Amps, which we don't use because of increased danger of explosions when you measure the Maximum amount of Amperage the battery can output (which is achieved by Pulsing the battery), while CDR, is the amount that the battery can output Continually (instead of pulsing, you can completely discharge the battery "safely" though not recommended in 1 shot, IE: Like holding down your mods Button for power...))

    So the Amperage is the Quantity of energy the battery can safely (when using the CDR Amp rating) deliver continually.
    The "MaH's" is a unit of measure "MiliAmp/hour".

    So if I take the analogy of a car. The Amperage would be the Power of the Engine in the car and the MaH's would be the Amount of fuel it can hold/mileage per gallon...
    And as most of you know, the more powerful the car, the more fuel it'll need, therefore the less farther he can go without a refill/recharge hehe

    So it's always a trade between the 2. Continuous Discharge Rate Amperage, and the amount of Miliamps/Hour...

    GET AUTHENTIC BATTERIES, any of the following brands are good and will produce great batteries with the best performance in the industry. Sony, LG, SAMSUNG, . Sometimes PANASONIC, SANYO.
    Battery Rewraps:
    Aspire, IJOY, BrilliPower, Golisi, AWT, KeepPower, MXJO, VapCell, Sherlock HΩhm, MNKE, AW, Efest, Trustfire, UltraFire.
    * DO NOT TRUST the Ratings from these battery companies. They rewrap Batteries and Exaggerate their Ratings Grotesquely! Probably 1 of the reason why there are so many batteries exploding...
    Fictional You bought a battery that's Rated for 50 Amps (but it's CDR Amperage is 15 Amps, not 50 Amps, that's impossible, at least not in 18650's) and puts it in his Mechanical Mod which pulls 35 Amps. Eventually the battery starts offgassing/venting and after a while the energy and heat builds up and at some point it explodes!

    Always refer to Mooch's Blog to make sure your info is correct, or that it's not a new Revision, or Specifications have changed. But most of all, to make sure you are getting Authentic Batteries!

    And any batteries that are NOT Authentic Sony, LG, SAMSUNG, Panasonic or SANYO can change at any moment

    So if you have only a 1 battery mod, the minimum Amperage should be 20amps, 25amps would be even better but then you'll start to really sacrifice the MiliAmps/Hr (MaH).
    If you have a multiple 18650 battery mod, then depending if they are in Series (Current is the same for every cell. Current=Amperage, Prioritize high Amperage) or in a Parallel (Total Current/Amperage is the sum of each parralel battery, therefore prioritize MiliAmps/Hr, though for security reasons, I never buy any cell (battery) with a CDR under 15 Amps.

    As always, this is personal experience and scientific facts, but I do not guarantee ANYTHING and I'm not to be held responsible for any inaccuracies or injuries due to this post or any of my posts.

    This is an OPINION made from personal experience and "scientific" research. If you want to get a REAL source of information, I suggest you head over to Mooch's Blog since he has the knowledge and does his own testing of ALL the Batteries he can get his hands on.

    Otherwise, I hope you appreciated my little run down of "how it's made" but if you want all the details and you want to understand all that down to the electrons, ions and magnetic fields as well as basic battery chemistry...all that good stuff will be there, and also on Wiki...

  • PureVape

    Have you just copied and pasted that from somewhere?
    Are you sure that post is meant for me, have you not read all of my past post on this subject?
    By the way i can no longer get these " Imren 3000mah @ 30a/45a " batteries again, shame tho, they still going great.

    Thanks all the same. ;)
  • juxt

    Battery Snobs, ugh!, Right? I DO agree that LG and Sony are not the only capable battery makers on the market, but also agree you should know and test what you've got.
  • Bodhi Naut
    is that a single cell charger OR voltage checker?
    Love how compact it is, as I travel a lot.
  • VapeCritic
    it only shows the voltage right now, if i wired in one of the boards below it would have a micro usb port for charging :ok:

  • LabPong
    Did Bud get a package from Digi-Key recently?
  • ChlorophyllMan
    Heya, I just received an email from Amazon.co.uk regarding some Sony VTC5A batteries I bought from them.
    It linked me to an old Sony article which warned not to use them in vapes:
    They're just covering themselves, right? Or has there been a more recent horror story that should concern us?
  • standingsideways
    I had the same warning when I bought Sony batteries from fogstar.co.uk
    I'm pretty sure it's just a Sony disclaimer to cover their ass in case shit happens.
  • ChlorophyllMan
    Yeah, cheers man, most likely.
    I did wonder if something happened recently, though, because I bought those batteries from Amazon about 6 months ago and only got the email today.
  • juxt

    It may have come from an Amazon, but it probably came from a seller on there that you bought the thing from though Amazon...it happens behind the scenes all the time. Some of them are small and get behind when they get orders, and you only get them later. And Sony requires them to send them, because they don't endorse vapes.

    If you worry about batteries, there is a battery thread here that you can search for...Sorry, I'm really bad with links :(

    Some dude here links the "battery expert thread" like every post, not sure why he hasn't chimed in ;)
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