damn. this rig tech is new to me. looks crazy

Looks kinda like a "different looking/style" type of e-nail, sort of like the MiniNail E-Nail :D

They mentioned they were coming out with this thing and I should be getting one very soon to review, it looks sweet

Definitely an enail but it has an herb chamber under the dab surface. Looks like it needs a male direct inject type fitting on your glass (or just an F-->M adapter).

I'm also looking at the ccc710 Liger as I think I actually want an enail just for those really want to get ripped occasions. Definitely not the Aventus type of low temp vaping >:)

It is made by New Vape which is always a good thing. They do use quality material on all their stuff and I can't complain about anything I ever bought from them. This e-nail is way to crazy for myself but looks cool to me.

How does this compare to something like the "Lotus" herb attachment by D-NAIL. I saw a YouTube video of a guy using the Lotus and it seemed to be just "ok" to me. It looks cool/solid but is along the lines of a higher quality Herb-Iron. The D-Nail systems must be top of the line for dabbing though.

I'm not sure I'll get into dabbing for medical reasons.... I've never tried it before anyways. If my surgery requires a shin down amputation rather than the scheduled calf tumor removal I'll probably get into it for pain relief.

I'm not familiar with the D-Nail nor have I heard of it lol. I'm gonna event the F-Nail (Flipz Nail) 8-)

D-nail is one of the original names in enails/coils/control stations. But they are also incredibly expensive, particularly their control stations.

These control stations use a temperature feedback loop algorithm called PID (proportional–integral–derivative...aint' that a mouthful) and while I cannot attest to this, a number of very experienced dab heads have recommended that the control station use Onron PID. This is certainly the control IC but I usually have seen it integrated with a display and that says Omron. This is similar to temp control box mods where people want, for example, the DNA2000 chip set for TC. Supposedly Omron is the real deal. What the PID does..well, a good one...is prevent overshoot on initial heating and maintain precise temp control when/when not drawing. Its job is to keep the nail stable a the temp you set.

I'm looking at a G9 by Greenlightvapes upon recommendation. Yes, its chinese made but its not in the vapor path at all. Its all of them strike me as really just a power supply and an industrial process temp controller. MUCH cheaper than D-nail

http://www.greenlightvapes.com/#!product-page/gba22/f8e6ed4e-bc8e-2b67-9003-1242e53c1365

Thanks for the info. The G9 I actually know lots about... take away the dr dabber boost box and logo, replace it with Greenlightvapes/G9... you got the same thing lol. Last time I looked, found a g9 e-nail kit for like $60ish shipped. Not bad at all for that product IMO (Y)

If you do get one, I highly suggest 2 things. Zoom in on the pictures & make sure the glass that comes with it has 2 slits and not the 4 little holes. The one with 4 holes clogs crazy fast and it will cause you nothing but issues. My other suggestion is buying a extra glass piece or two from whoever (also make sure the extra glass has slits n not the holes). Can maybe do without the extra glass but it is highly subject to break. You can thank me later 8-)

↪Baron23
Thanks for the info. The G9 I actually know lots about... take away the dr dabber boost box and logo, replace it with Greenlightvapes/G9... you got the same thing lol. Last time I looked, found a g9 e-nail kit for like $60ish shipped. Not bad at all for that product IMO (Y) — Flipz

You are referring to the Henail
http://www.greenlightvapes.com/#!henail/jpe8c

I'm talking about this puppy here:
http://www.greenlightvapes.com/#!product-page/gba22/484f992c-b32c-cc98-1bc4-e3b5fc13fc14

And then putting this on it
http://www.cca710.com/liger/

Whoot Whoot LOL

I did a review on request by my friend, Momofthegoons, on another forum and thought that I should post it here as I am not comfortable linking to other vape BBS's here...although it gets done and seems to be ok, it just seems a bit rude to me. So, posting it here.

Part #1 as its too long for the board's limit so breaking it up into two posts

Basic Configurations
But, there is a lot of different configurations and a lot of history so it has to be more than “yeah, man….I used it and got wrecked” type of review. LOL
Let’s start with a basic general description: The FP is an enail coil/controller based vaporizer system for both dry herb and concentrates. It is all titanium and beautifully machined in the USA by NV who are located in Boyton Beach, FL.
It comes in two basic varieties….the FP with multi-dish that everybody else calls the Wrap Around (WA) and the primarily herb based Shower Head (SH).
NewVape’s FP site, including FAQs, are here: https://www.newvape.com/vape-essentials/flowerpot-twax-vape
Here are two pics cut from NV’s website of the two basic configurations:
The WA:

Wrap Around (WA) Heater Head

The SH:

Shower Head (SH)

The differences are in the heating head design. They both need an enail barrel coil and controller installed on the head, but one is optimized to accept Halo type inserts (quartz or Silicone Carbide…”SiC”) for dabbing but you can dab straight off of the Ti (if you like that taste, which I do not). Both can do flower, both can do concentrate, and both can do both at the same time (double decker hit).

But the WA is optimized for concentrates and the SH is truly a flower machine.

Wrap Around Variations
For the next part of this review, we need to understand the basic parts that make up the WA heater head. Basically looks like this:

WA Heater Head Basic Configuration

The WA comes in two configurations also; 1) for use with the native Ti or it will accept a TAG Silicone Carbide (SiC) insert and a slightly different configuration that will accept the D-nail SiC Halo. Difference is that the D-nail insert has a smaller center post opening so it needs to use the appropriate Wrap-Around Head and Center Post Nut (also called a Coil Nut).


If you want to use the TAG SiC insert (sold by TAG or can be bought from NV directly), then you can the appropriate WA Head (or ‘Post’).



Each of course needs the appropriate coil nut for the diameter of barrel coil you want to use:




NOTE: It would be helpful if NV had a configurator that led you through the steps to select compatible items in order to create a FP system. NV has said that they are working on that, but in the meantime, CALL THEM as they have/continue to make changes to their configurations and what I have here may well be out of date soon (if not already).

The Shower Head
The SH heater head is optimized for flower but, as said, if you want you can dab on the Ti trough at the top. The SH does NOT accept Halo type inserts as its primarily for flower and, as you can see below, the center post air inlet is wider with more holes to optimize airflow in the flower bowl underneath. I own a SH and do not own a WA.
It only comes in 20 mm and I wonder how if NV will continue to offer 16 mm as its just not the most sought after size.


The Body or Bowl Configurations
Any Body (or bowl as this is where your flower/herb go) is compatible with any WA or SH heater head.
The Body also has a bit of a history. First, there was the standard ‘OG’ bodies that, while still on the site, are a bit dated and overtaken by subsequent designs. OG bodies include male and female and 14 and 18 mm joint sizes.


 
Then came bodies with handles:


You can see the design evolution here and part of that was to address how the f*ck to empty a VERY hot Ti bowl! LOL. So, we got bowls with handles. Note, the handles are “break-way” handles in case it gets stuck in a joint you will break the cheap handle before your expensive glass. He does make a solid handle, with silicon wrapping instead of hemp fiber, which is what I use. Its listed as a separate item on the FP parts page.



Cont. in next post

Part 2

But this brought up the next issue. Some peoples male body w-handles never stick. Mine stuck every time. It’s simply the expansion of the Ti in the glass joint. Once it cooled down again, it came off perfectly. But how to empty the bowl if it’s stuck in a piece of glass with water in it. Well, I always use a drop down with any of this sort of kit and found it very easy to use the drop down as an extended handle for the bowl. Forget taking the bowl out of the drop down joint (wasn’t happening), just pick the drop down up out of the joint on your water piece and use it to hold when emptying the bowl.

But I’m not the only one who had this issue of sticking…far from it, it was very common. So, NV attempted to address this with two piece Pan Head and Shovel Head (familiar terms to Harley aficionados). The ONLY difference between the two of them is aesthetics…just superficial exterior design. However, they do have a difference from the OG Handle Bodies shown above….the new two piece’s screen depth is 2.5 mm deeper than the OG Handle Body and is equal to the screen depth of the OG bowl (non-handled). Some customers wanted this as they wanted a bigger load size. I prefer the shallower bowl as it puts the load closer to the heat source so a lower coil temp can be used. With the Pan Head and its 2.5 mm deeper bowl, I upped my coil set point temps about 40 F but you will need to experiment as people are all over the maps with FP temps depending on how they like to vape (it’s a very flexible and versatile design).

So, below are the Pan and Shovel head two piece bodies. Note, their handle has a hole in it to insert a small dowel or screw driver to use as leverage to tighten it. As far as I know, they only come in male fittings as the female didn’t have the sticking problem (for obvious reasons) so there was no need for a fix. How this works is you drop a post (14 or 18 mm) into the joint on your water piece until it’s firmly seated. Then gently drop your bowl over the post until it rests against the top of the glass joint. Insert handle and screw the two pieces together. This really did solve the sticking problem. Early versions sometimes had a small air leak that slightly diluted the vapor, but considering this is the ‘bong’ of vaporizers even a small amount of dilution was considered unacceptable. Small tweaks to the design (e.g. getting rid of the key way on the posts) eliminated that issue.


What Else Do I Need?
Well, you don’t need a carb cap but I use one every time and to me it makes the same difference, and for the same reasons, as we use a cap on a dab rig. I use the cap for flower only bowls as I can reduce temperature on the coil and get thicker vapor. If you have sensitive lungs, perhaps do without the cap but you will probably get somewhat thinner vapor (but we are talking about a relative difference when already starting with a smoke stack of a vape! Haha).
Carb Caps - He makes three different carb caps:

1. Lollicap for WA . Note, the handle can screw on in either a vertical or horizontal orientation (th


2. For the Showerhead, NV offers two caps, one very much like the Lollicap and another design made out of Ti which seems to be preferred by owners (and I certainly like it the best)



3. Threaded Loading Tool – rather than the little dab handle that comes with the carb caps, I recommend either the threaded loading tool that will replace that on the cap, or at least get their Pax Loading Tool as this is the best scoop in the business, IMO, and fits into a lot of vape ovens. Highly recommend these items.



4. Coil Cover – do you need a coil cover….no. Should you get one, hell yeah. Keeps the heat in and reduces the delta temps between set point and actual heater head temp.


5. Enail PID Controller and Coil – you need to drive this thing so you need a 20 mm barrel coil and a controller to drive it (personally I don’t see any reason to go with 16 mm). Now this is where NV and I differ. There has arisen a defacto standard for coil/controller interfaces. On the mechanical side, a full size, bayonet type, XLR connector and on the electrical side, the pins outs are Pin 1 = AC power, Pin 2 = AC power, Pin 3 = TC +, Pin 4 = TC -, Pin 5 = Ground. NV stayed with the defacto pin outs but uses a screw on type XLR connector. NV’s position is that it’s a better connector. My position is that this connector is not on some airborne avionics or other critical application, that this is overkill, and that in doing so they are locking their customers into buying all future coils from NV (or building your own) which is unacceptable to me. We have conversed on it, NV will not change its mind, so I do NOT recommend their controller/coil. I do recommend Auber which is a good price, company and their tech support is in USA (although I’m sure all or most of the components are made in China), and adheres to the defacto standard XLR and pin-outs.
Water Piece – Personally, I like a stemless can without too much diffusion. But the FP does indeed need a water piece to operate through. NV sells some nice Chinese glass and there is always DHGate unless you are a glass aficionado who likes to buy those $2k heady hand made pieces. LOL

6. Coil stand or tray – you will be taking a hot heater head with a hot coil off of your bowl….to empty, reload, take a break, whatever. Where you going to put it? Down on your dining room table….no. NV makes a number of trays that provide a place to rest the heater, a de-bowler to get the AVB out, AVB dump, etc. They vary in price. Or, you can get a large, heavy, ceramic coffee cup and just dump the heater in there in between draws. These are NV’s. I have the round one which I thought was a decent compromise between function and price.


Screens – your flower pot will come with a screen. SS or Ti, not sure which. But do yourself a favor and by two-ply Ti screens from Errlectric or now NV also offers this item. It will keep herb particles from getting through your screen and keep it out of your water piece and lungs. Well worth the extra money.

Part 3 (yo, Bud...@VapeCritic, we need a larger character count limit or I need to write more briefly! haha).

Operation and Maintenance
Operating this vape couldn’t be easier. Like all e-nails and some other vapes like log vapes, EVO, etc…..the FP works better if you give it 5-10 minutes to heat soak after turning on. Scoop some herb into the bowl, put the heater head on, cap, and draw. It’s that simple.

I generally run about .15 g as a load, or .1 g (or less if you like to micro dose, it will work just like a pipe or bong in that manner). I run at 640 F but people are using their FP anywhere from mid-500’s to low 700’s, depending on the experience you want. Higher temps can drain a load in a couple of draws. Lower temps, more flavor and perhaps a slightly more leisurely session. But this really isn’t a sipper, IMO. This vape is for hard hitting….at least that’s where it fits into my rotation.

I fine grind and like that as it exposes more surface area to this full convection vape. Others like to put small nugs or hand torn and after a couple of draws break it up. They feel that they get more taste this way. I’m too lazy for that and just grind fine.

Maintenance is super simple….just dump the bowl parts into some ISO, its Ti so no worries. The heater head doesn’t really get dirty so unless you feel like disassembling it to remove the coil (which does NOT go into ISO) there is nothing to do. Myself, once I get a coil on nice and tight, I tend to leave it there.

Just like an enail, IMO they work better if your coil is nice and tight on the Ti. I adjust the coil vertical spread and width to tighten my coils up. This is something I do on e-nails and the FP.

I don’t do double decker hits (dab on top, herb in the bowl) but it’s made to do this if that is your desire. It’s just not something I’m interested in, I would rather dab on a dedicated device like a Liger or D-nail Halo but others like this feature. Just depends on your vaping habits and desired outcome.

I think that’s about it. I’m sure I will think of more or you may raise questions that will prompt me to remember anything I over looked. I can say I’m very happy with my FP and it fits in my vape line up where a Sublimator, Glass Symphony, or Herborizer Ti might go. It’s very hard hitting, clean and easy to use, and will NEVER break (oh, coil my go bad but I think even the clumsy among us would be challenged to break this machined, heavy duty, Ti device.

Thanks! That was awesome!

WOW Nice review! Very informative, I wish I saw this sooner~.. Hmm that bundle for 600 pretty much covers everything on your list except the screen but for limited time you get the showerhead and WA SiC.. Never even heard of silicone carbide being used, Sounds tempting..

if you are going FP WA then definitely get the one w D-nail SiC halo insert. SiC is the bomb and I personally don’t care for dabbing off of Ti. Doesn’t taste real good to me and SiC is great.

Hmm just so Im clear.. The WA Sic, you need this part?
https://www.newvape.com/d-nail-wrap-around-centerpost-20mm-1

Yes. You IF you are going to use the D-nail SiC and no if you are using the TAG SiC. You did read my review, right? It’s in there.

Also, If you have any questions or issues w config you can always call NV for the definitive answer.

Forgot to tell you how excellent your review was!!

Thanks for posting it (Y)

I'm linking to your reviews on that Main Vape Thread I started 8-)

Thanks, Bud. Wow, doing reviews s indeed a lot of work. Thanks for all you do for us in that regard!! (Y) :D

Yes I think I understand what you mean but That seems like I need to buy additional halo sic and center post 16mm which is something i dont want spend initially but maybe down the road if I buy this thing.. But yea I think I would just use that extra WA wit SIC they offering with the bundle..I just read your review again, excellent man! helpful so I dont have to ask the questions you already answer

Thanks...not sure what the bundle is so I can't give you any input there.

Not sure I understand what is the "extra WA w-SiC" that they are offering.....so, in the bundle is the WA heater head and the TAG SiC? Is that right?

If so, give it a go, mate. I don't think the TAG SiC has any issues, just the D-nail one is a little bigger and better polish (but so what, right?). Yes, to add D-nail SiC you would need the right post AND buy the SiC halo from D-nail...yep, mo' money.

Oh, and sorry if I was a bit short before...was on a phone and I have a cold from hell so not in the best of places.

Good luck

NP all helpful from you~ this is the bundle they offer, as I need glass, loading tool and a case for this beast..
https://www.newvape.com/showerhead-bundle
They offering the showerhead and WA w/sic together.. Thats everything you listed above and I would just buy the double weave screen and should be good to go, NO?

Wow, big bundle. Ok, here is the thought.... each head...the shower head and the wrap around will need a coil installed on it (that's where the heat comes from, yeah?).

To me, changing a coil from SH to WA would be a total PIA. Particularly as I tend to fit my coils tightly to the body they are installed on (although I understand that NV's coils fit his heads very well as is).

So, if I were to recommend anything else it would be to spend an exta $35 for another 20 mm coil. Install on on the WA and one on the SH and just plug the one you want to use into the PID controller.

And yes, buy some double weave screens while you are at it. Save on shipping on a small item.

If you do get another coil so as to kit out both heater heads, you may consider getting an extra handle. Yeah, its mo' money and yes..its not critical and you can live without it. But I do like mine (I have three, on on SH, one on Liger, and one on D-nail....where did I get all of this shite?!! LOL).

Other than that, it looks like a very complete bundle. You will love the fine grinder. Its all I use. Don't want it so fine, only give it a couple of quarter turns but it does grind very nicely IMO. Also, the loading tool will be one of your favorite tools. Guarantee you will fine it very useful. About .1 g of fine grind with a level scoop. .15 g with a heaping scoop.

Best of luck!

Hmm I may be grasping what your saying incorrectly but your suggesting I have a SH setup meaning already installed to the coil which is part of the handle? And another "setup" for the WA w SiC... I understand buying another 20mm coil (I think) but wouldn't I also need a coil cover and coil nut? Aren't those the only 2 parts I need to change between each setup? the SH or WA, coil cover, coil nut and coil? I watch the video inside that bundle link and seems pretty simple to swap but does it get tough after usage? Thanks!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-y7wDSls44o
I Watch the 5:20 min mark, doesnt seen too bad i think? finger tight
BTW About how many scoops can the FP hold?

Yes, if you wanted to make both heads a rather "permanement" installaiton, then yes you would also need another coil cover and nut.

Yes, its not too tough at all to change the coil from one to another...up to you.

My recommendation then would be to just get the one coil, live with it for a bit, and if you find changing the coil every time you want to switch from one head to the other to be a PIA, then get the added coil, cover, and nut.

As for the handle...yeah, I have handles installed on all of my coils and NO, that is not easy to change but if you move you coil from head to head, NP. The handles are very nice but yeah, they are a bit pricey.

How much can it hold...I can't say that for certain but I would guess that you can get .3 - .4 g if you really loaded it up. A practical load is, IMO, generally about .25 g.

Hope this is helpful.

Thanks! yes all helpful, really just up to me now which way I'm going to go.. Any reason why you would pick the EVO if u had to pick one, just wondering?

almost the same level of performance in a more simple and easy to use kit without an exposed hot coil.

Thanks! my mind keep going back n forth between the two.. i still cant decide with all the given info..In reality I just need to get them all lol~

flip a coin. :-!