• Azn2101
    Hello I own a MUSA which in my experience is like having Herbalizer heat up time with the ability to stretch material like a Log and make clouds like an EVO.

    I spent the ~€300 because it was stated that there were only two things that could ever go wrong with this device. Both of which if you bought extras (Glass Heat Post/35w Bulb) and were careful then you had yourself a Grade A+ Vape that lasts as long as you allow it...

    Unfortunitely I was never told about the lack of glue in the connector/socket and that it was just drilled into the base and then soldered together.

    It broke last Wednesday before memorial day and I was on my way out of town on vacation and was pretty frustrated at the "Unbreakable Vape" so I left it and it honestly was like someone deflated the first day or two of my trip because I opened it up and say this and I just couldn't deal with it at the moment from being frustrated but even then we were trying to beat the Rush hour traffic on our way out of town

    So today I was feeling optimistic about the situation (actually really sucks and bums me out) so I decided I was going to open the base and actually try to assess the damage instead of just opening It up and realizing it wasn't a quick fix and left a few hours later for the trip.

    Here's what I'm dealing with



    Now Tobias said that if the wires were dis connected to just solder them back to the connector stub but none are actually disconnected. Both the positive & negitive terminals are still soldered together perfectly with nothing loose and the other end are clamped down with no damage.

    Anyone or anyone who knows anyone who could be my online electrician to help me get my baby up and running again would be really awesome guys.

    When I say I'd really appreciate it. I mean it more than just niceties. I would very much appreciate help in this.

    Worst case scenario I'm sure I could send this into almost ANY 510 vape maker or UD or EV for repairs but I'd really like to save as much money as possible on something that I never planned on spending money on to fix but I understand that things happen.

    I hope you guys can understand loving & loosing that one vape/thing that you own. This is mine when it comes to objects. Yes they are just that, Objects but that still doesn't mean we can't love 'em and I miss my MUSA :cry:

    Sincerely Thank You,
  • Stants
    Do you have a multi meter ? (Sorry if they are called different things in the states)
    To save chasing phantom problems/ changing everything I'd check if theres actually current going through it or through one side then work backwards from there

    On the top pic it looks like theres not a great deal of copper still attached to the solder and if that socket has just come away maybe its stretched way out &if you've then pushed it back in they could have touched and shorted out blown a fuse in the plug? (Again I'm not familiar with us plugs)

    I'd strongly recommend getting some insulation along that that wiring though, I assume theres two posts there but the picture doesn't show it very well ?
  • danielblakes
    yes some more pictures from additional angles would be helpful but if my assessment that one side should be attached to the rounded center post and the other to the flat, metal plate on the side connected to that dc 12 v connector or whatever, then it looks like the general fraying and separation of the wires could be to blame; aside from that, it could be either of the connection points under the gold colored contacts on the other end near the glass tube, or the outer connector itself (which looks to some kind of standard 12v barrel plug).

    to quick fix i would cut the near the gold block area, remove the rest of the wire to the plug, reattach and solder replacement wires from there to where the old ones were attached.

    to properly fix i would remove the wire fully from under the gold blocks (looks to just have to loosen the screws and it may just be sitting or wrapped around the silver metal coming out the other end, but of course i can't tell without photos - could be adhesed, soldered, etc.) get a similar gauge replacement wire and reconnect it to both ends how it was originally. i would also recommend using heat shrink at least or some kind of insulation around the wires when you're done (or buy pre-wrapped wire).,..i don't like bare loose wires that close together, personally.

    after seeing this opened up and doing some research, suffice to say i'm a bit jealous :). hope you're able to get it working again.
  • DatDus
    Hi, I would replace the wiring and as mentioned by@danielblakes use heat shrink to cover the wires
  • UbarDog
    The fact there is no insultaion on them wires Says to me that it gets HOT there. He should use some sort of glass or ceramics to insulate them.


    brass.... Eakkk it can containe lead and they look like the stright from a chopblock and not made for the job. (with lead free brass) BUT I DONT KNOW

    Un-insulated leads of a Spinning plug. = bad build.
    Ed TnT uses glass beads for this reason

    As for repair. You will need a multi meter to check cable continuity. I would think it will be a short . If you don't have one then

    Get unit so you can SEE all the condutors are NOT touching then plug it in and see if it powers up.
    Does it power on?
    Yes = Short somewhere that you have cleared. (put back together) maybe put glass beads over 1 conductor.
    No = A break in conductors.


    1st change fuse. Retry.
    2nd check terminal screw are tight and both conductors are installed properly.

    TBH with out a mutlimeter this is all you can do.
  • Azn2101
    WOAH! :gasp:

    Firstly, Thank you all so much for responding! For some reason I'm not getting alerted or maybe I just have some type of ringer on silent but Thank you guys, it's actually making my hairs on my arm raise up a little.

    Ok from the gathered information from @UBardog @DatDus @danialblakes @Stants and from information from a few people commenting on the FC forum I'm cautious to what @Lazylathe & @KeroZen were implying when mentioning that it isn't safe to have unprotected wires and being that this is an AC powered unit I don't want to fry the vape or myself by accident somehow from a inexperienced repair.

    I'm not knocking Tobias but for ~$350 and making a point that the unit has only two things that could go wrong makes me feel a bit recieved when looking (and now knowing) that even for a Simplistic layout the parts aren't really what you'd expect to find an especially if every unit is like this. But seeing that the entire socket can be stripped and how loose the arms that hold the screw connector things cause those are the same poles that support the bulb inside the heat post and also he takes a diamond blade and cuts a little notch out of the heat post so that screw can fit slightly into the glass tube and I'm guessing that's his creative Signiture.

    I really hope thus gets taken care of though as I think it will. Tobias seems like a great guy but we'll see how he handles his first real issue from a unit (from the way he talks in the emails but it could be the language barrier.)

    Anyways I'm really slacking on getting ready to run a few errands before morning traffic gets gridlocked.

    It makes me really happy to see how many people that I've never spoken too came together to help. It's post like these that counter balance or off-put some of that negativity that @VapeCritic is feeling and again I can't tell you how happy I am.

    Thank you all, even people whi.didnt post but just read my post. Thank you.

    Azn2101 / Clay
  • Musa Vaporizers

    Push the connector inside the hole and make sure that both cables don't have contact to each other. Then you have to add some glue from the inside. (don't worry, it's not in the airpath, and there is no big heat)
    if you need more detailed help just write me a pm
  • Pud
    at the very very least, Home Depot or wherever sells s liquid electrical wire insulation to smear on the bare wires. Electricity can arc between the 2 bare wires especially when there are errant strands hanging in all different directions making the wires too close together. I see one I’d trim off or smash down for sure. Bare wires and electricity dont mix. Solid copper wire would have been better but either way I’d like to see the insulation on those wires.
  • Musa Vaporizers
    there is no chance of shorting in general. The wires can't move if everything is installed. But for sure he can isolate it if he wants to. But the owner seems not to have the skills for technical repairements, so we should not make it more complicated than needed.

    The problem here is, that the owner tried to screw the connector again into the wood while both contacts are still connected to the plug. (the plug was probably my failure)
    Normally that part would look much cleaner!

    I sold many Musas, and after four years, two of them appeared with this problem. Two units too much!
    I solved that connection in a smarter way with the Musa V2.

    @Azn2101 we can do the repair via Skype if you want. I will give you a step to step explanation. You just need a good glue and give it a 24h open dry
  • Dankpup
    Yeah I would make sure those wires and solder points aren’t touching. They make a high heat liquid electrical tape you could brush on the question is how hot is it around those wires?
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