• The Splinter
    5
    Model: Splinter Vaporizer
    Variations: Splinter (V1/V2), Splinter Z (V1/V2)
    Category: Portable
    Manufacturer: RastaBuddhaTao
    Where to buy: VGoodiez *see deals page for 10% off code

    Existing Splinter threads you should check out:
    https://forum.vapelife.com/discussion/3787/splinter-z-by-rbt
    https://forum.vapelife.com/discussion/2216/rbt-splinter
    https://forum.vapelife.com/discussion/5192/splinter-or-splinter-z

    Discuss all variations in this thread :up:

    fsa9z7fmqcn35l93.jpg

    dswa4wjfcrx57jvq.jpg
  • bum karacho
    1.9k
    After 2 months daily use of the cheapest Splinter v1 Chinese Version (80€).
    I can say i love it. I use the splinter only with bubbler. For me the best vape for hash, kief and concentrates........
    I turn my stem after every inhale a 1/4.
    I like the ondemand watt mod best. TCR also works good.
    For me the best vape for under 100 bucks....
    Ps: i love the strong effects!
  • Dr green thumb
    6k

    I followed @Ctipp22 video

    Tcr let's the splinter v1 be set to the the temp you like. I run mine with cruise control set to 390°f (198°c) and it performs beautifully.

    My session goes like this. I load my long Ed's wpa stem inside with 1 pax scoop of my favorite flower cap with a basket screen insert into splinter hit the fire button on my p80 mod to enter cruise control. I wait the short 5 seconds to hit 390 then insert the the wpa stem into my rig and inhale. When I'm done inhaling I click the button so the vape turns off. Repeat
  • Hapo
    245
    ...I am kicking myself for not buying the four hole custom Splinter whislt I had the chance as I read @ FC that they now are extinct in the wild...

    ...I was planning to ditch mine because the supplied stems didn't fit for shit...I was thinkin' Dreamwood…

    ...then it occurred to me, behind some reading @ FC, that the irregularity might be in the Chinese stems as well as the Splinter itself...

    ...I has an XL cooling stem on hand that I didn't try because I am returning it...it came in cracked...

    ...it was a perfect fit...

    EDIT:

    ...I see there is quite the learning curve here...this isn't a Pax...

    ...not much liking the Splinter so far...combustion and green weed in the same bowl here...LoL…

    ...maybe that is why the stems are so loose, to make them easy to rotate whilst toking...???...

  • Hapo
    245
    ...I am learning to like this thing...the XL cooling stem is a must imho...

    ...there is a pronounced hot spot that is discouraging considering the size of the heating surface area...

    ...I guess that be why they tell us to "stir for optimal vapor quality"...

    ...I think I might like the vapor better than the Pax...

    ...I don't hate that thing so much anymore, neither, after today...

    ... today, in a pinch, it did well, but I digress...I do that.....lookit that bird...!!!....

    simpsons_PNG6.png

    ...aaaanyway, the Splinter seems to kill the battery on my mod in two bowles...is that typical...???...

    ...it's a Samsung Q30 in a Snow Wolf 85W TC mod...
  • The Rogue Wax Works
    1.2k
    @Hapo have you changed you settings? I had hot spots and bad performance until I changed my settings.
  • SouthboundPachyderm
    2.4k
    spunning your stem a 1/4 turn between hits helps keep it even. I also prefere to stick a screen inside the glass joint, and just load the joint, then cap it all with the basket to hold it in. Makes for a bigger bowl, still need to stir
  • Hapo
    245


    ...just the watts...
  • The Rogue Wax Works
    1.2k
    @Hapo see if you can follow the video above. I'll post the pics my bud sent me of his settings that I use and improved my experience.
  • Hapo
    245
    ...it is way over Hapo's head...maybe his mod's capabilities too...

    ...apparently it was a great mod in 2015...

    ...it seems to pick it's own settings other than watts...
  • Terpenetime
    370
    I also prefere to stick a screen inside the glass joint, and just load the joint, then cap it all with the basket to hold it in.SouthboundPachyderm

    This is absolutely essential with the Splinter and Splinter Z in my experience. I must have spent hours reading threads on FC trying to find the ideal technique but no matter what I tried I couldn’t stop hot-spotting. It was only when I changed my loading technique that it all started to come together.

    I would add that I get the impression that all Splinter’s are ever slightly different, which would explain why there are so many differing recommended technique’s out there. When all’s said and done you just need to keep experimenting until you find out what works for you and your particular Splinter.
  • BestBuds
    2k
    Ok. So what would you do? I have a Splinter v1 that I lost all purchase info on, and therefore can't get it replaced or repaired. The wood body separated from the metal base / heating element. I can buy the Loctite M- 121HP that RBT uses for $30 to $50 but that's not ideal. Lots of wasted adhesive and not cheap.
    I was thinking about sanding the wood to make the base opening where the 510 connector goes into the wood a bit wider. Then I was going to steal a idea from my Bagpiping background. On bagpipes we use hemp string with bees wax as a friction seal for the sliding joints on bagpipe drones. So I was thinking of wrapping one layer of bees wax hemp thread around the metal base and then reassembling the unit. That ( in theory) would hold together with friction. I don't know if that's safe or what.
    What would YOU do? Would you consider it a loss and make a vapcap heater from it? Would you try to make a wax vape like the seed? Would you try to fix it your own way? Or would you just buy the Loctite M- 121HP and suck it up, fix it the right way?
  • Z Master
    489
    What’s the difference between the V1 & V2 Z? Is one better than the other?
  • BestBuds
    2k
    v2 is blackwood with smoked glass.
  • Z Master
    489
    that’s all? That’s the meaning behind it? Thought there would be more to it hahaha
  • Z Master
    489
    What’s the best mod for a Splinter Z?
  • Hapo
    245



    ...personally I would get a Glow' before they sell out and learn how to rebuild it...

    ...I have the first part covered...

    ...seriously, though, it was my understanding that the standard Splinters were not able to be rebuilt or repaired...???...

    ...some times my understanding is flawed, but this is what I believe...
  • BestBuds
    2k
    @JMH I hear dna mods are the best.
  • Kuzko
    258
    The Splinter was was built so that the heater never needs to be rebuilt or replaced so that’s why it’s not just a standard rebuildable e-cig deck like the others like Dreamwood. Repairs, on the other, are certainly needed sometimes. Not sure about the current RBT repair policy but none of mine have ever had a problem.
  • Z Master
    489
    So how does the V2 mean it’s Blackwood? Was that just a lie or a guess
    t2eko7r70q3ebtcl.png
  • BestBuds
    2k
    75lpgv2lcyp9fexc.png
    Neither. @Other Side can correct me if I am wrong.
  • Z Master
    489
    wasn’t trying to be rude haha, just really curious. I have a Blackwood on the way that’s why. Also curious if there’s anyway to tell which is which.
  • Hapo
    245
    The Splinter was was built so that the heater never needs to be rebuilt or replaced so that’s why it’s not just a standard rebuildable e-cig deck like the others like Dreamwood. Repairs, on the other, are certainly needed sometimes. Not sure about the current RBT repair policy but none of mine have ever had a problem.

    ...this is what made me originaly pick the Splinter...

    ...the issues I had seem to, ah, stem from China...

    ...I see the Splinter is not likely to go on the Endangered Species list behind the Glow any time soon...

    ...it was my understanding that the current generation of Splinters are not reparable and the only option is replacement when they go south or break...



    ...do you mean the difference between the (made USA and now discontinued) Custom and the (current made in China) standard Splinters…???...

    ...or the difference between the V1 and V2 standard Splinter...???...

    ...the Custom is better...

    ...V1 is bubinga...V2 is black wood...
  • Other Side
    1.4k
    V1 is Bubinga, V2 is blackwood. This is true of both the Splinter and Splinter Z standard (Chinese made) products.

    Treecity probably grabbed the wrong box back that's all. He has a lot of stuff.

    And Hapo is right. Repair by replacement on Standard product.

    If Best Buds could locate his receipt he could get that Splinter replaced. Since he can't the only option he has is to repair himself.
  • Other Side
    1.4k
    Standard made in china. Lower quality glass, ceramic heater divider and repair by replacement.

    Custom made in US. Thicker German glass, mica heater divider and some some things can be repaired when/if Ryan (or who ever his new person handling warranty) can get to it. Ryan quotes 4-6 weeks. There have many instances well beyond that throughout the RBT evolution.
  • Z Master
    489
    awesome thanks for the info, I have a V2 on the way & am going to buy a custom one
  • SouthboundPachyderm
    2.4k
    thats not a v2 in the picture bubinga units are v1 blackwood v2
    Edit: i jumped the gun, i see you already got that answer
  • Z Master
    489
    thank you tho I appreciate it
  • Z Master
    489
    Here’s the splinter & the splinter z is just the better model.
  • Pakalolo2
    994
    I purchased the Splinter Z in the classified section as shown by you yesterday. Is it a V2 or a V1? I thought I bought the V2.
bold
italic
underline
strike
code
quote
ulist
image
url
mention
reveal
youtube
tweet
Add a Comment