• EconMan
    3.9k


    Yeah, the only time I might use all 3 tons is if I wanted to squish a bag the full size of the bag -- remember it is not the total pressure that matters, but psi. The smaller the bag/nug, all other things equal, the greater the psi.

    I would read through the Rosin of the Week thread as there is great info transfer in there.

    That said, squishing is an art as much as a science and you WILL botch a few batches as you learn the ins and outs. Different strains and even batches can squish differently and only some experience truly can teach the required lessons.

    My quick list of philosophical pointers. @Gman, et all, chime in with corrections/additions, different pov, etc.
    1. Yield. Get "yield" out of you mind. The worst tasting Rosin I ever dab are from misers trying to maximize yield -- if you piss in your squish, that increases yield too. Most of your yield will be directly causal from the flower, the rest other than basic tech, is secondary including the particular press used. That is, once you're in the territory of a "real press" marginal returns after that begin to decline quickly.
    2. Personal Rosin Presses. The three most important things are plates, plates, plates. My $230 (now on sale only $199!) M800 is cheap mostly because it has cheap plates. But not too much of a negative because the plates are so small (2x3) and things like even plate heating don't matter much.
      Also think about ease of use. You will be fiddling with nugs, bags, temps, pressure levels, and trying to manipulate clumsy parchment paper... so presses with "both sides" access are always a nice convenience. MY DW6000 electric is like that (not the M800) as is a friend's DHP7 V3 (hydraulic 7 ton).
    3. Settings. I've already talked long on pressure -- not that much is needed for most people (I've never maxed out my 3ton DW6000 - I have maxed out the M800 - lol). Regarding temps to set, I argue a good starting setting, generically speaking, is 170-180f. Some strains however WILL need more heat. Remember, it is a perpetual trade-off between temp and squish time. I tend to prefer lower temps than higher ones and so I tend to leave it on the press plates longer. At 175f, generically, I do about three minutes. But this aspect varies much.
    4. Bags. I love them. First, their existential purpose is to reduce yield, or better said, to prevent non-desired contaminants from the flower becoming part of "yield". Yes, I sometimes press nugs directly, as a quickie convenience, but basically, I dislike bits of plant matter in my dabs. They taste like shit and tend to cause micro-combustions.
      I used to use Pure Pressure, but for the last year I've been using The Press Club (via amazon) bags and I am a fan. They are a bit stiffer and easier to manipulate and I've never had a "blow-out" (bag busts usually at its seam) Now which size bag to use? Which tech to use? The press you get, and more specifically, its plate size will drive this choice.
      Go on YouTube and watch "bottle-tech" vids. Learn why it is done and its merits and demerits. BT is VERY forgiving, so it's hard to totally screw it up. That said, I personally prefer squishing "bag flat" and like to use the size bag that is *almost* the size of the plates. I believe this keeps the released rosin from "scorching" on the edges of the hot plates (My major gripe with BT). But there are many great squishers more capable and experienced than me, who disagree and only do BT. Even on big-plate presses... they will put three or more BT loads on one plate run.
    5. Flower Prep. Some grind but I've found that does not help and may hurt the squish. I separate the nugs by hand cleaning out stems and load my bags with a firm but not tight pack of "mini buds" (if you pack too hard the bag will bust, if you pack to light, collection can be a nightmare).
    6. Parchment paper. Use a "heavy-duty" (thick) high quality parchment. I find Costco sells the best quality available on their own brand. Remember there are two challenges in squishing -- obviously the squishing, but the squish is useless until it is "collected". Cheap parchment paper from the dollar store will make you hate "collecting".
      Smells. Squishing WILL put the smell of cannabis in whatever room you squish in. So for those folks needing stealth, or who don't like their kids knowing what they are doing, etc., keep this in mind. This will also drive the sort of press you want.

    Regarding discounts from Dulytek, I believe for first time customers only, you can use "NEWCUSTOMER" for 5% They also have some specific models on sale here - one is the DHp7 press, which I've seen used and is quite good. https://dulytek.com/pages/coupons-and-discounts

    Again, IMO, once you get to a certain level of "Rosin Press" the differences become one of personal preference not "better". In other words, going from a hair-straightener to a M800 was a grand canyon LEAP of difference. Going from my M800 to my DW600, was much less of a leap -- more like a nice hop -- even though it costs more than four times as much. And it doesn't make "better rosin" rather makes it easier to do larger squishes (I find a half oz at a time is optimal for me) and makes it a lot easier to replicate successful settings.


    What do these $1800 to $5000 presses do that a $400-$800 one will not do?LabPong

    Do? Not much. Semi-professional. Capacity primarily. As plate size grows geometrically required force grows exponentially. Also, on small plates the heater can be really cheap. As the plates get bigger the how and where to place the heaters in the plates so they radiate even heat without cold or hot spots. Durability. They are made to be used hard.

    I broke my M800 the first few weeks I had it trying to do more capacity than it was capable of doing. To my suprise, Dulytek repaired it at zero charge -- didn't even pay postage.

    Now some of the super high-dollar presses that run $10k+, their biggie in addition to heavy-duty is software and automation. In a professional setting, replication is everything. The data of every squish is saved into a db to be retrieved as desired. Once can have numerous "presets" and push a button and it does what it did last time.
  • LabPong
    3.1k
    I can see the larger press load sizes being important. They do not look that big in their ad pics and I didn't read enough.
  • Baron23
    9.4k
    @Gman @VapeCritic

    I did a squish last night....bare 2 g nug of Purple Punch. I have not been squishing that much because....while I agree with Econ that yield is not the only factor....I was ruminating that I just got more mileage out of my flower by vaping it directly than pressing into rosin.

    But, I have gotten better and most of my yields are right about 15%. That's what I got last night, 15% out of 21% THCA tested flower and I do have a very accurate scale and know how to accurately weigh stuff. I'm ok with 15% out of 21% flower.

    Nice color, tasted good, and yes, Econ...there are some bits of flower in there from naked squish.

    Now, I'm pretty sure it was @Gman who told me that Slick Paper is good with bags but is too slippery for bare nugs...and last night, I proved him right! haha

    First squish and that nug was all over the place, hence the small amount of flower bits in the rosin and not a great yield on first press. So, I folded it back up and squished again with parchment and got almost the same amount of rosin as the first squish but without the puck being spread out to the size of a small Frisbee (ok I exaggerate...but it really did go all over on the Slick Paper).

    I do like Slick Paper for bags...its doesn't bleed through or tear very easy at all. I like Slick Sheet for collection. But for bare nugs, I agree....parchment, parchment, parchment.

    Wrt to the discussion of do you need a 10 ton or 20 ton press. As well answered, no...not for personal use, IMO, unless your personal use goes to the level of squishing a 1 oz a week! haha...and that's not me.

    So, I have a NV Micro20 and yes, its a "20 ton" press with a 10K PSI BVA hydro pump and big cylinder. The fact that its 10k psi pump and a 4.37 square inch cylinder area, is not a hindrance for my pressing 3 and 4 square inch loads. What is a bit bothersome, however, is the low resolution on the gauge that comes with this size pump. With a 4.37 sq in cylinder, only a fairly small amount of line pressure out of the pump/gauge is required for small squishes. This would be easier if the gauge had a higher degree of resolution.

    So, I think I'm going to squish a bit more here in the near future. But I still don't know how the F people get "27% on my first squish standing on my wife's hair straightener"? hahaha
  • Pud
    119
    my friend had the same observation as you on the gauge... so as a gift to my friend for letting me play on the press, I bought a gauge that was only 3000psi then it was easy to see the poundage since they also will never use it anywhere near capacity... the gauge was only like $30 but solved that barely moving needle when at desired psi
  • Baron23
    9.4k
    Hi Pud - yeah, I was thinking that I can certainly get a gauge like you are speaking of, but I think that would require me to drain the system in order to install it.

    I know that the fittings to the press and the pump have check valves (ball valves, really) in them....but the gauge? Dunno.

    Do you happen to know?
  • Pud
    119
    We stood it up to remove the old gauge so all the oil wouldn’t totally drain and tried to preserve as much oil in the line also when unscrewing that end then just topped off at the fill plug, pumped it a little to kind of bleed the system.. old school on the not wasting perfectly good oil... lol. It was less than 10-15min. But def no biggie. You sound similar in the being pretty handy. My friend was mildly nervous but we were standing in Grainger warehouse and the salesperson reiterated how I had explained to him so that allayed his fears.. lol
  • Baron23
    9.4k
    Thanks!! I guess I can always call BVA also and ask them.

    Cheers
  • Pud
    119
    your BVA pump is super nice... here is a vid if needed... just be sure to use good quality hydraulic fluid.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ng8A2e8ymWQ&app=desktop
    Hope it helps!
  • Gman
    1.1k
    lol, ya that was me. Been there :)
  • Baron23
    9.4k
    Thanks...I bookmarked it to read later. I appreciate your interest and help :up: :100:

    hehehehe...yeah, man...one day I will get the trick to learning from other people's experience and not have to make every damn mistake myself! haha

    It was extraordinary how wide that nug spread on the Slick Paper.

    Cheers
  • Gman
    1.1k
    It becomes paper lol
  • EconMan
    3.9k
    I was ruminating that I just got more mileage out of my flower by vaping it directly than pressing into rosin.Baron23

    That was/is my experience. Unless you got some truly badass bud, 15% is a nice respectable yield. As I've said before, barring some new genetically engineered strain of MJ, I suspect the "theoretical" limit for real yield in squishing flower is right near 30%. That is, if everything is as perfect as possible, you might get 30%. Also, to the extent you over-hydrate your flower, then your yield will be even lower.. as you're going to immediately steam any excess moisture out (water is heavy) before weighing again, subtracting and dividing.

    I'm not a big "slick" fan. The one session I tried it made me feel like a fish out of water so I went back to what worked well for me. I rarely have any problem with parchment. And it is cheap. Costco sells two big rolls that last a long time for personal use.

    It becomes paper lolGman

    It did. :razz:
    I was convinced I was going to get "plastic covered rosin" but I didn't. But it lost its nice soft texture. Even taking out of the press is precarious -- the bag can just slip out -- no friction -- onto a carpet of cat hair. :gasp: Not my thing. Like with good sex, you need a little friction :nerd:
  • EconMan
    3.9k
    one day I will get the trick to learning from other people's experience and not have to make every damn mistake myself!Baron23

    Dude. It is human nature. A year ago @Gman said go in starting at 180f... we've already researched the temps and their vaporization points. I had to see what 150 did, then 160... 190, 220, 250... etc, then the times...

    Now all grown up, just yesterday I gave advice and said start at 180f :joke:

    #ThickHeadedPeople :nerd:
  • Baron23
    9.4k
    yes, experiential knowledge is the most impactful and lasting....but it would be nice to not have to dive down every frakin rabbit hole! haha

    As for 180 F...dunno, ran 214 F measured at the plates last night and got some beautiful true pull snap which is a fav of mine.

    Thanks for the note! :grin:
  • Gman
    1.1k
    ya if you want pull and snap then you can even go 220 easy and you'll even get a bit more yield sometimes. I just really like the chance at crumble so I hit low. 75% of the time I get peanut butter and that 25% ohhhhhhh yeah crumble city baby.

    Of course the time to sour is half the life of pull snap, but it's worth it for me, I'll go through it before it goes bad.
  • EconMan
    3.9k


    Lol :) I get a lot of GDP here, and it needs more heat it seems. I do not know why, it just does. But if you go hotter you also usually need to go shorter.

    Speaking of going bad. Is there a general generic average? I tend to use mine certainly within a several days at the most, so I suspect for me it is often moot.
    But once I had forgotten about a squish .. was still in the parchment. Must have been two weeks old in a desk drawer. It had "dried" almost into "hard rocks". I dabbed it and it tasted great. As if the aging process, like beef, did something to it? Theoretically, I would have expected it to degrade more.

    Also, was that you lamenting on silicone containers for rosin?
  • Gman
    1.1k
    The degrading is worse if you open, close it often. So leaving some in a cool dark place wrapped up is ok, but I would worry of the parchment paper leeching from the terpines. That's not good for long term storage.

    Generally I find the taste changes a lot but only starts to "sour" after a month or so if it's not properly stored.
  • Pud
    119
    should probably be in glass as opposed to in the silicone container? what are your thoughts for long term storage.
  • Gman
    1.1k
    glass, always. I have infinity jars with solar protection.
  • Pud
    119
    I’ll have to get more ordered up... they seal much better anyway. Thank you for your input!
  • EconMan
    3.9k
    I have infinity jars with solar protection.Gman

    It is odd, because for my Rosin, I have tended to store it in silicone containers. But I use glass for everything else. Weird. Perhaps because my Rosin doesn't sit around long? :)

    Generally I find the taste changes a lot but only starts to "sour" after a month or soGman
    s
    That is good to know. Unless I use the little M800 for a quickie nug smash, I tend to squish out about 6-12 grams of Rosin at a time now (a half oz of flower on the DW6000 is no problem at all).

    This is good and bad. Large batches are awesome when they turn out great. They are expensive when you screw the pooch and just botch it -- it happens. Once the phone rang while I was squishing which turned into a complex call, and I forgot I had a near half-oz squish going on -- by the time I remembered, it had been a good ten minutes and fortunately the press, because it's electric, automatically turned off the heat, and opened the plates (still slightly over cooked because the plates don't cool that quickly, but nevertheless avoided a disaster. The Rosin was quite good though.
  • Gman
    1.1k
    I had a silicon jar only used for rosin on a two week trip. I thin removed all the wax and put the Silicon jar away. 6 months later wax and terps leaked out the bottom. Yet I left NONE in it. So yes, silicon leeches your wax.
  • EconMan
    3.9k


    I wonder if that is why sometimes why I "clean" out the oil in the silicone container thinking I got it all, only to see a few drops magically reappear next time I open it?
  • Gman
    1.1k
    yep exactly but I left it so long it made its way all the way to the bottom and then onto the drawer bottom.
  • Ctipp22
    2.1k
    What press seems to be giving the greatest yields and isn't industrially priced?
  • LabPong
    3.1k
    What press seems to be giving the greatest yields and isn't industrially priced?Ctipp22

    Define "greatest yields". Or in another words......are you going to spend an extra $300-500 to get an extra 1-2% more yield over saving that $300-500? It seems that is the way it is if your just pressing for yourself and do not press more than a few grams of flower at at time. If you do mostly or all rosin and not much flower or other...yea then I can see that the extra would be good if you do just rosin.
  • Ctipp22
    2.1k
    A press that is 1000 or below that is consistent in pressing 25-30% yields. Also one that is clean and catches the rosin well. Maybe press 2grams at a time?
  • LabPong
    3.1k
    Ctipp....how much would you press per week on average....or at a time?
  • Ctipp22
    2.1k
    Make maybe 3-4 grams a week of rosin. press once every week or two? Id just load up on B buds and press a shit ton of it.
  • LabPong
    3.1k
    LabPong
    Make maybe 3-4 grams a week of rosin. press once every week or two?
    Ctipp22

    A 3 to 6 ton press with 3x5 plates would be more than enough. And I would not spend a dime over $500 for it!
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