This is a full parts list by the guy who designed the vape
cartidge heater $18.00 - 3" long 1/4" wide 60w
24/40 3way 105º distillation adapter $16.00 - This is main outer glass part
24/40 to 19/22 glass adapter $15.00 - This is the bowl
100m glass thermometer adapter $19.00 - This holds the heater and paste inside the 105 distiller.
thermal paste $16.00 - used around the heater and between the relay and heatsink
beads $40.00 - 300 3/16" boro beads (I am pricing this as if you purchased 300 of the right size..i goofed along the way)
cable clamps $7.00 - these white clamps are on both ends of the cable cover
hose clamp $1.00 - hold the temp probe wire to the glass and has a cable clamp attached to the end
cable cover $10.00 - the white nomex cover
heat shrink splice $5.00 - connects the heater wires to the wires into the pid.
wire $10.00 - to the wall
case $23.00 - is the space
silicone plugs $8.00 - goes on top of the 100mm glass adapter
silicone tape $7.00 - used around the bowl
fuse $2.00
fuse holder $4.00
switch $5.00 - on off
grommets $2.00 - use to hold the wires inside the holes on the case.
pid controller,pt100 probe,solid state relay,heatsink $65.00 - got them all together.
24/40 glass drying adapter $11.50 - this is the handle
24/40 stainless clamps $16.00 - these are the clamps that keep the glass together
glass nail (came w/ pipe) ? - goes inside the bowl to hold the screen
high temp tape $5.00 - used to hold the temp probe.
stainless mesh screen ? - goes on top of the glass nail inside the bowl
anti-skid feet $3.00 - used on the case
The figures I gave you are what was quoted. If anything has changed then it wasn't updated.
I'm not sure where you would find all the parts in Israel but the list should help you with the correct items. The glass stuff would normally come from a scientific glass store and he picked that so it would be easier to replace if needed.
Ok because it's complicated with simple tube components broken so I only need 2 parts
1. 180mm tube and I've already ordered
2.Copper, I do not find what kind there are full types and I do not know what a conductor
Not sure where you read that but it seems to not be able to withstand high temp.
If I was doing the repair, I would look into some copper anti seize paste that is usually rated to 1800F.
Try some automotive repair places or parts places, they will have the copper anti seize material. Just make sure it is rated a lot higher than the temps you use your GS at.
I'm confused ... What did you show me is this Lubricant for bearings? I'm just looking for copper type red powder with diamonds as the picture you see copper and turns black so ev
ery time it breaks in a glass .
Dude, firstly you need to be more polite when asking questions and not receiving the answer you want.
Now, red paste with diamonds? Can you link me to where this mix was mentioned??
I have no idea what you are talking about as I only ever knew the heaters to have a copper heat paste.
The lubricant I linked you to is copper based and can withstand up to 1100C, so would be a good replacement.
I own the very first GS to ever be made for the public. My heater is still perfect with no cracks and has the copper paste.
Thanks for the answer and I apologize for not being polite because every time a heater breaks down and I have been holding a glass stove for a year and today I find that it has been broken without explanation and is well maintained and you say you use this product so I will buy a product.
maybe one of these people can tell you a source as they did research on the powder you seek.. if you don't want to try the copper paste that lazylathe uses in his unit. The primary person writing this paper was in Cairo... https://rdcu.be/b3ul3
There are other researchers who wrote different papers on this material as well. Just a thought.
The red with diamonds bit puzzles me...
JoJo never used or mentioned this so I am not sure what he is looking for.
Seems the OG poster is not too sure either...
What he needs is a copper based thermal paste that does NOT expand when heated.
A LOT of the thermal compounds DO expand after heating and this WILL crack the glass.
This is perhaps why JoJo had to "cook" his heaters down while adding the compound.
I do not use that paste, my heater has never broken. It is just an option I quickly found.
No guarentee on if it will work. I would need to do a LOT more research...
If I know more about this red paste and diamonds, I can help.
Otherwise your best bets is a thermal compound that does not expand when heater.
Another issue could be cheaper/thinner glass that is being used now?
As I said, mine is Number 1 and still works perfectly and is not cracked.
Not sure how some people can crack that glass.
Any extra info on what you are looking for would be helpful.
yep for sure... I don't know anything about it but I love learning all the different applications people can dream up.. very interesting to me
And maybe the powder is the source of all his problems as you bring up a good point. Depending on how much the copper powder expands when heated maybe thats why a paste is superior as the copper would have room to expand within the paste so overall it doesn't expand to crack the glass.
Thanks for an answer and now I realized a problem was created in glass crack because of copper mixing and diamonds because broke some glass tubes it could all be due to powder so tomorrow I will place an order as you use the material and see how much it will hold full
Jojo Monkey said he cooked out the grease from the Safekote 60 in the post I linked to ^^^
Please re-read it
The way I understand it is that cooking out the grease at 600F will cause the paste to harden up and loose it's anti-seizing properties but still act as a thermal compound up to nearly 2000F
As described here https://imscompany.com/content/pdf_viewer?page=240