• v0id
    Cant edit my last post but I just noticed that the power supply is going to be too powerful... whoops.

    I wonder if there are potentiometers on the PCB that can be turned to tune its power :chin:
  • Señor Negro
    Time to revamp this thread. :sweat:

    I have this "rare" issue with the 18650 batteries that makes the positive side flattened I'm guessing in the process of taking on and off the slide of my G43. I consider this issue rare because I have not seen anybody else talking about it.
    The problem I have with this is that aparently the battery "ramdomly" connects and disconnects which make the usage of the sled finicky because I can't tell when it's hot enough and when it's not until I try to hit it or I carefully touch briefly the glass balls side of the slide to test it.

    So, I decided to re-take the wall G project I had completely forgotten and even if it required to cut and reasemble tiny thin wires (and I'm not that "handyman" I'm afraid) it wasn't that hard because the worst that happened to me is having to cut more wire making the final result shorter, but not that much as I finally decided to add a switch to turn the power supply on/off.
    After I finally got it all wired and connected I made some tests and strangely came to the conclusion that the "sweet spot" for me was at 7V on the supply led screen and even more weird when I tested the voltage at the aligator clamps and it was dancing between 6.5V and 7.5V which makes me think the Amperage I am playing with is between 1.5A and 2A instead of the 3A that the supply was suposed to have.
    That gave me a slightly lower temp than the usual for the G which is ideal to me because I don't need it to be that potent, specially considering I only use it with a J-hook that may make the vapor a bit harsh in long sessions.

    I could not make further testings and pics of it because I forgot to make any on the process and I had to cut the temp testing as, unfortunately, the wire that came with the alligator clamps were too thin and that caused the cover to melt on the points where red and black wires cover were touching.
    But it still worked for a while so I only have to change those wires for wider ones to consider the project finished and successfull. :up:

    I'll post more and/or pics if there is still someone interested on this thread.

    PD for @badbee: Oh my god I broke the laws of the physics!! :scream:
    Or maybe it's just that the formula you were talking about months ago is not enough to determine what level of amperage a resistance can handle. Maybe that's why there are resistances with different wattage specs for the same ohm levels for sale in the market :chin:
    I'm sorry, "really not trying to be a dick", but for "an electrical engineer by training" (I don't even know wtf is that suposed to mean) you seem not to know what your stuff is about...
  • zibit
    @Señor Negro My batteries did that too, I thought I ruined them or something the first time I saw the indentation.

    I'm going to try the wall G mod soon, which Power Supply did you get?
  • Señor Negro
    I finally got a variable 3V-12V and 3A I found in aliexpress:

    This is the switch I added on the wall plug side of the wire:

    Remember those links are from the spanish site. You would have to look for your own stuff, but you can use those as a reference.

    I also thought about "fixing" that issue by adding a bit of "tin" (?) with a solder on the very spot of the positive side of the battery holder. I won't risk playing with hot stuff directly on the battery, but maybe on the very dot of the battery holder could improve the contact surface and fix the issue.
    I'll post again if I finally decide to try that.
  • badbee
    but for "an electrical engineer by training" (I don't even know wtf is that suposed to mean)Señor Negro

    I phrased it that way because being an Engineer is like being a Doctor, there is more to it than just going to school, you have to be registered. I got the education but never worked in the field. I spent 25 yrs writing software, thank god, it pays much better.

    As for the other parts, I was just trying to be helpful and spread some knowledge. Sometimes people ignore the specs and get lucky, good for them, doesn't make it good advice for others.

    Engineers spec things out with some safety overhead. If you need 3 A you generally buy something that goes 25% to 50% over that for margin, when buying low quality parts from the third world you go 100% over.

    I hope you weren't harmed too badly by my bad advice.
  • Señor Negro
    I was just trying to be helpful and spread some knowledge.badbee

    Which was completely the oposite you did with your "laws of physics" statement, which is completely different than ignoring the specs and get lucky, but a real world aplication that isn't based just in aplying formulae without taking into account all the variables.
    I wasn't working with a percentage over the needed, but with less as amperage in the circuit was lower than 2A. I can measure that if anybody needs the specific number but as long as you can provide the said 10-13watts you are good to go.

    I say all this because it wasn't me who was harmed in any way by your bad advice.
    I wasn't afraid of taking into practice the (not even a full) year of the electronics course to try by myself this wall G project.
    In any case you could have (or not) harmed anybody that could take for granted your missinformation, forcing them to buy an overpowered and therefore more expensive power supply when there's no need at all.

    By the way, , I decided that as I will have to de-solder and re-solder the alligator clamps to connect 'em to a wider wire I will try and see if I'm capable of adding more conductible surface to the battery holder, hopefully not damaging it because the plastic case is too close to the connector. :sweat:
    I will have to wait until next week tho to get that wire. I'll update with my outcome when I'm done.
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